Meenakari vs Kundan vs Polki: A Guide to Traditional Indian Jewellery

Walk into any Indian jewellery boutique and you'll hear three words used almost interchangeably: Meenakari, Kundan and Polki. They often appear on the same piece, which is part of the confusion — but each is a distinct craft with its own history, technique and look. Understanding the difference helps you shop smarter and appreciate the artistry behind every set.

Kundan is, strictly speaking, a setting technique rather than a stone. The word refers to highly refined, almost pure gold that is worked into thin foils and used to hold gemstones or glass in place — no prongs, no glue, just expertly hammered metal. This craft dates back to the Mughal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, where it adorned royalty.

In modern handcrafted jewellery, Kundan most often describes pieces set with faceted glass or semi-precious stones held in that signature gold bezel. The result is bright, reflective and intricate — ideal for brides and grand festive occasions where you want jewellery that catches every light.

Polki uses the same Kundan setting method, but with one defining difference: the stones are uncut, unpolished natural diamonds in their raw form. Because the diamonds are left close to their natural state, Polki has a softer, milky, antique glow rather than the sharp sparkle of cut stones.

Traditionally Polki is the more precious and expensive of the family. In fashion and gold-plated jewellery, the look is recreated with uncut-style stones to give that same heirloom, old-world elegance at an accessible price — perfect if you love a vintage, understated shimmer.

Meenakari is the odd one out, because it isn't about stones at all — it's the art of enamelling. Artisans fuse vibrant coloured enamels onto metal at high heat, painting intricate florals, peacocks and paisleys in jewel tones of green, red, blue and white. The craft flourished in Jaipur and remains one of India's most beloved decorative techniques.

You'll most often see Meenakari on the reverse of Kundan and Polki pieces — a hidden burst of colour that means the jewellery is beautiful from both sides. Worn alone, Meenakari earrings and necklaces bring a playful, festive pop of colour that pairs wonderfully with both traditional and contemporary outfits.

The reason these three are so often confused is that the finest pieces combine all of them: Kundan or Polki stones set on the front, Meenakari enamel hand-painted on the back. This two-sided craftsmanship is a hallmark of quality and a tradition our Mumbai artisans carry forward in every set.

Choose Kundan when you want bright, statement sparkle for weddings and big celebrations. Reach for Polki when you love a soft, antique, heirloom feel. And pick Meenakari when you want colour, character and pieces that work as easily with a saree as with a kurta. Many of our designs let you have all three at once — explore the collection and see how the crafts come alive in a single piece.